Day 10: Our final day in Europe

Today was our last day in Europe.  It was an amazing one!!!

Our whole group on the last night of our trip.

We had a later than usual wake up call today which allowed me, and the kids, to get a little extra sleep.  The sun was shining brightly as we boarded the bus for our Berlin city tour.  Our local guide was Matt.  He is British and I think he might have been a tour guide for me before.  Overall, I thought he was great.  That dry British wit mixed seamlessly with the history and culture of Berlin.  As we drove, and walked, around the city, Matt explained the most difficult parts to our kids and they really enjoyed it.

One of our first stops was along the Berlin Wall.  In the 90's, a group of artists, with permission of the city, created an art gallery with the wall.  What once stood as a symbol of oppression now stands as a symbol of expression.  In the past, we have been able to sign our names on the wall, but it looks like the city is making an effort to preserve the artists' work...we honored that effort and did not sign.

Every time I've visited, I have photographed the curriculum vitae sign.

This image may look familiar as Hitler used these steps for many propaganda speeches.

The Reichstag Building

The Berlin Holocaust Memorial.

Matt also took us to Berlin's (and the world's) best chocolate company.

The Brandenburg Gate made out of Chocolate

An Active Chocolate Volcano. I tried three times to get a shot of it erupting, but missed each time.

At the conclusion of Matt's tour, we visited the Topography of Terror museum.  It highlights the history of the Nazi Party and how it took power, used Nationalism for evil, and perpetrated the Holocaust.  It is part of a new wave of thinking in Germany which means confronting their past. The museum is new, only 7 years old, and continues to impress me and the kids.

This part of the museum is open-air and runs alongside of the Berlin Wall.  It is just down the street from Checkpoint Charlie.

It was our final museum on the tour.  It isn't an uplifting experience, but it is a worthwhile one.  We didn't do a real debrief afterwards, but for those who took the time, this museum will stick out in their memory.

We hopped onto the Metro for a quick ride to Alexanderplatz.  It was to be used for lunch, last minute souvenirs, and high end shopping! (I might have made a couple visits to Dunks!!!)

Our final train ride was accompanied by music!!! "Hit the Road, Jack" never sounded so good!!!

My last currywurst, served inside a taco salad shell?

The East German walk sign...Appelbuamman.  

First Dunks in 10+ days...we may have ordered another 20 minutes later.

Soviet Era Communications Tower juxtaposed with Dunkin Donuts (Capitalism)

There is always money in the banana stand...but did the Bluthes know the banana stand was in Berlin?

It was soon time for our final dinner.  We walked from Alexanderplatz to the Hackescher district.  It is an artsy part of town with lots of restaurants and boutiques.  For dinner, we had pork-type meat loaf-dumplingish thing.  It was served over rice, gravy, and peas.  It wasn't necessarily a hit, but mostly everyone had their fill.  It was bittersweet, after dinner, when Norbert picked us up.  His work with us ended tonight.  A different driver, and different bus, will be taking us to the airport.  A good trip is based on several factors...and a good bus driver is one of them.  I will remember him for many years.

And now I sit here in the hotel. It is just past midnight.  We have a very early wake up call and trip to the airport.  We will be traveling back to the comforts of our own beds, our loved ones, and school on Monday.  The likelihood of the 26 of us every being together again is slim, but each of us will hold this trip as something special.  We learn on these trips.  We learn about the Hapsburgs.  We learn about the Cold War.  We learn about humanity.  Most importantly, we learn about ourselves. I hope each of these students can share with their loved ones what they learned the most.  What moment, of this trip, changed them?  I'm hopeful that their memories will fill, not just the car ride home from Logan, but many many years.

I have been lovingly criticized by some readers of this blog for not writing a proper conclusion for the past couple of trips (sorry, Mom), but I am going to make a concerted effort to do such a thing. It might be on the flight home tomorrow or in a couple days, but I will try to reflect on the whole experience...not just for you, but for me.  I thank you for reading and sharing this trip with us.  I hope I gave you peace of mind. I hope I shed some light on how I see the world.  I hope I was able to capture this experience for you in some type of meaningful way.

Mr. Lavoie, currently closing the laptop for the final time in Europe...we are headed home!!!

Day 9: A Drive Through Two Germanys

Today was a difficult day.

It was our longest transfer day of the trip.  We knew when waking up in Munich that we would be spending most of the day on the bus.  It's strange.  Days on the bus are almost as exhausting as our day in Prague...actually, they might be more exhausting.  We woke a little earlier and had breakfast.  We packed the bus and hit the road.  Most of us caught extra sleep on the first leg of the trip.  We had a couple of rest stop breaks, but our goal was to cover as much ground as possible.

Roughly halfway through the trip, we stopped at a little town called, "Modlareuth."  The town was originally split between two different counties, Bavaria and Thuringia.  When World War II ended, and Germany found itself occupied by the Americans, Soviets, British, and French; Modlareuth found itself being administered by both the Soviets and the Americans.  As turmoil between these two superpowers played out globally, one could find a mini version of the Cold War playing out within this little town of fifty families.  As walls sprung up in Berlin...and across Germany, one too found itself being constructed in what would soon be called, "Little Germany."  This tiny little town would be split in two for nearly 40 years.  There would be no access between the two halves and people living in the East German section would not be allowed to even wave to their family members on the other side.  Out trip to Modlareuth was really nice.  The folks who run their little museum played a 20 minute orientation video for us and then we were free to explore the open air museum that the town preserves.

Me standing on the dividing line between East and West Germany (and East and West Modlareuth)

In the town today, there are a lot of artifacts from the time period.  They even have the wall preserved.  Here in Modelareuth, the wall didn't come down until December of 1989.  A pedestrian path was built reconnecting the two Germanys.

Steve fell into the stream separating East and West as he tried to escape...to his credit, he didn't complain about getting wet.

Dillon and Maria in front of the wall and a guard tower.

A model guard tower with Dalia posing for a picture!!!

Jenna walking along the wall.

Jeremy escaping into East Germany?

Natalya happily on West German soil!

Dillon through an observation window.

Riley patrolling no man's land.

Our visit was short, but it was an important stop.  I realized while chatting with a bunch of the kids that the separation of Germany is foreign to them.  They have heard of the Berlin Wall, but in context, they don't really understand how important it was as a symbol of oppression.  It is something discussed in history class, but has no really meaning on them.  Their fears aren't that of communism or the Soviets.  Their fears lie in something else and to them, this is old news.  It is part of why these trips are so important.  They bring to life important elements of history that are so often forgotten as time progresses.  Truth be told, we need more of these opportunities for kids to preserve the good and the bad of history.

As we left Little Berlin for Big Berlin, I started to think about the whole trip.  Really, it is divided into three main sections.  The Old World of the Hapsburgs (Budapest, Vienna, and Prague), the Holocaust (Dachau), and the modern world of Central Europe (Berlin/Munich).  Each one of these aspects are strikingly different, but in some regards they can all rely on our understanding of identity.  What does it mean to be European, or Czech, or Modlareuthian?  How does one identify to a nation or flag...when does that quest for identity become dangerous?  How can we learn from the past to prevent terrible things, done based on our definitions of identity, happen again?

We stopped along the highway for lunch.  Our meals were pleasant enough, but the road had made us groggy.  With a few hours still in front of us, many caught some additional Zzzzs.  I tried to read for a bit and tried to upload yesterday's pictures.  (They are available now, but it is nearing 1am)  Instead, I really just sat there among the sounds of slumber and thought about how fortunate we are...how fortunate I am.

I was really thinking about making this trip my last one for a while.  It is tiring work.  The late nights and additional pressures of checking on kids during vacation week can be exhaustive.  I had really decided that this would be it....until the end of last year's trip.  I had a few kids, and parents, ask me where I was headed next.  I originally said that I was taking time off, but eventually conceded and began the process for 2018's trip to Ireland, Scotland, and England.  I am excited for that trip, to be sure, but I have had such a great experience so far, that I almost wish I had stuck to my guns.  With that said, I am pretty sure that I will be making the 2018 trip the last one I lead for a while.  This trip will always hold a special place for me because of the great kids who are on it. While I might be putting away the laptop and temporarily retiring this blog, I am hopeful that they will never stop traveling and learning.

We arrived to Berlin at dinner time.  We are at a restaurant on the 5th floor of a shopping center.  We had a nice view of Alexanderplatz.  The food was chicken schnitzel, fries, and vegetables.  Honestly, it wasn't my favorite meal of the trip...I don't think anything could compare to last night's dinner.  It was cool, however, to be back in Berlin.  The first trip I ever led included Berlin.  I can believe how much the city has grown since I first arrived here.  The Eastern section of the city is alive now.  The construction projects are never ending.  It's funny to me because the kids probably look at the city as a mess, perhaps even broken.  The never-ending cranes, construction equipment, and detours serving as examples of a city struggling to fix itself.  In reality, however, it is the rebirth of a city, maybe even the nation.

A few of us headed back into the city for an evening tour. Gina graciously led us around showing us many different sites along the way.  We saw so many young people, out and about, laughing, singing, and having a ball.  Most of the places we were visiting would have been on the eastern side of that wall thirty years ago.  I will try to make sure everyone understands that tomorrow during our city tour and free time.  I think it is important.

This post is a little bit about identity.  The city of Berlin began to redefine itself on November 9, 1989.  I remember that night....vividly. I was sitting on my couch in the living room.  I sat there watching Tom Brokaw, and seemingly thousands of people, celebrating the fall of the wall.  It was a moment in time that I immediately recognized as one that I'd never forget.  I've watched coverage of that even several times since the advent of Youtube.  It is a way for me to remember how I felt while living through history...and it was a positive story.

We need a few more positive stories that redefine history.

There is only one more day left on this incredible journey.  We have a late wake-up call and a very busy day.  I hope to get another post out tomorrow night, but we have an early morning drive to the airport ahead of us too.

Thanks for your time this past week.  It really has been my pleasure to take a moment and share some of our experiences with you.

Mr. Lavoie, currently listening to the sounds of a bustling city...even at 1:15am.  

Day 8: A Snow White Castle

Most of us with the Castle on a Hill in the background.

[Author's note: I rely on a few things when making this blog.  The first is WiFi. I've solved that problem by renting a portable wifi device.  The second is a manner in which transferring pictures from my phone to the computer.  Google Images usually succeeds in this endeavor, but sometimes my "back-up" feature doesn't work as I'd like...tonight is one of those nights.  Please read the post below and then look at the pictures posted today.  If tomorrow finds the pictures available, I will make changes.]

It is the 8th day of our trip.  We have seen many different castles, churches, and medieval structures.  We have learned more about Baroque, Gothic, and Art Nouveaux architecture than I ever expected.  We have walked along cobblestone streets, dined on local cuisine, and met some amazing people.  The kids will have a ton of stories.  I encourage those reading this blog, especially the parents/guardians, to engage in conversation about all of the things you've read about.

I am sitting in the lobby of the Ibis hotel with Mr. Jones.  We were just chatting about how our high school foreign language education has faded from us, but comes back when we put it into practice.  For me, it is French, for Mr. Jones it has been German...watching him think about and remember different German words/phrases has been great.  He has even gone on to teach the kids some of what he knows.  This bit about language relates to the kids learning about the different styles of art and architecture.  If we don't use it frequently our brain stuffs it into the back of our heads and we may lose it forever.  By having conversations about what they've experienced, it will make the trip live a little longer.

You may think that the trip is ending with the notes above, but we still have a few more days ahead of us. The days, however, will be different.  Berlin is a modern city. It will feel more like home than any of these places we've visited.  In fact, it might feel the most different from the place we visited today...but I am getting a little ahead of myself.  Before seeing our castle on a hill, we still needed to see a bit of Munich.

We began our day in the usual manner.  Breakfast and then the bus...but the bus was not the bus.  The laws governing tour buses in Europe are very strict.  Drivers cannot be on the road for an extended period of time.  The buses have monitors that log in times.  Any violations can mean a license forfeiture or hefty fines. Norbert is vert conscious of these laws and limits (and we are glad for his concern).  The buses also need regular maintenance too. Our trusty bus had hit its mileage limit and needed a routine maintenance check-up.  This means we needed a new bus...and boy did the company take care of us.

We departed our hotel and headed for the BMW World.  It wasn't far from the hotel.  It was basically a showroom for all of BMW, Coopers, and Rolls Royce.  The kids could walk around and sit in some of their cars...and wish that they had them at home.  It was so fun hearing them all talk about which car would be theirs and how cool they thought the cars might be to actually drive.  I didn't have much hope for this stop on the tour, but overall, I think people enjoyed visiting it.

While visiting the BMW World, our local guide Colette arrived.  She was a firecracker.  Her English was really good and after a brief mix-up of communications, we hit the road.  Colette was able to make lots of jokes and relate the content of her tour to our kids.  They were laughing and answering questions.  We visited the Summer Palace of the German kings.  It was modeled on the Palace of Versailles.  We also drove past a few other important Munich monuments, but I think the thing the kids will remember the most was Colette providing recommendations for lunch.  The options were all Metro station food stalls, but the kids really liked the experience of getting local food.

After grabbing a bite to eat, we were off to Neushwanstein Castle.  It is a mix of different architectural styles.  It is also much younger than most of what we have seen on this trip.  The castle's most prominent features are said have inspired Walt Disney.  It is easy to see how this might have influenced Walt.  It is beautiful.   It was built around 1869 by King Ludwig II.  He was said to have been a bit mad, but we equated to being eccentric.  The castle wasn't completed because of his untimely death at the age of 40.  He didn't even get to live in it for more than half a year.  The rooms that were completed were surreal.  They prohibit photos, but I tried to steal a few when possible.

What made our visit even more special is the weather.  All week long, I have been fretting over the weather. I want the kids to have the best possible time and that becomes difficult when nature does not cooperate.  We have seen the sun, but we have also been rained upon.  It has snowed while we've been on the bus and the temperature is much colder than we ever had hoped for...until today.  Today, it all worked out.  On the way to the castle, it started snowing again.  When we arrived, a light snow was falling, but the sun was emerging.  The temperature was frigid in Munich, but nearer the castle, it seemed manageable. As we hiked up the path to the castle, snow was falling off of branches and hitting unsuspecting tourists.  It made the visit all the more majestic.

When our visit came to an end, we departed for a small nearby village. We were met by Paul Bonf.  The owner of one of the town's restaurants.  We escorted us to our tables and proudly served some chicken fillets and Bavarian style potato salad...it is made with mustard.  For dessert, he gave us potato pancakes and apple sauce.  As we wrapped up dinner, Paul made an announcement.  He had a surprise for us.  We followed him into a nearby room and he began to tell of us local customs.  Basically, the village has regular parades on Sundays.  They wear their best outfits (Lederhosen, etc). The villagers are modest people, even poor, but they have immense pride.  Whenever Paul struggled with English, Gina translated for him. She told us about his town's custom of hanging special banners for special occasions.  The village also has a few items that are for the whole town.  One of these is a giant banner that was hand-stitched, on both sides, nearly 100 years ago.  Whenever the parade occurs, people from other villages know Paul and his friends.  His whole speech was humble and heartwarming.

The customs of this small town are struggling against modernity. He tried to compare his town to the celebration of October-fest, but we all understood that there is something more special in a town looking after itself.  Paul waved to us as we boarded our bus and left for Munich.  In his arms was his grandson, a boy who had no idea who we were, but who, in a few short years, would be carrying banners for his town.  Who, in a few more years, would inherit his father's hand made lederhosen and leather jacket.  A boy, who when he became a man, will be faced with the challenge of working in his father's restaurant of going off into whatever the world has in store for him.  My guess is that the boy will choose a humble life of farming, running a restaurant, and keeping a custom alive for his own kin.

The public Facebook album:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10156023851350760&type=1&l=83a2ab00ef

Mr. Lavoie, frustrated that technology isn't working, but thinking about a village an hour or so away, where traditions are...

Day 7: A Quiet Trip To Germany

Today was another transfer day, but it was different than our other two trips.  Today, before reaching Munich, we would be stopping at Dachau.  It is a somber place and this post will probably be as well.

We awoke in Prague and had another wonderful breakfast.  Our bags were packed onto the bus and we departed.  In just a few minutes, I think, the whole bus was asleep.  We had more than five hours ahead of us on the road and the rest was much needed from last night's walking tours.  I tried staying awake, but totally succumbed to slumber for a good many minutes.  

I did wake a few times, along the way, due to some bumps in the road.  We also stopped for a bathroom break near the Czech/German border.  The weather was strange on the highway.  We saw the sun and snow.  Gina and Nobert were both very surprised to see it snowing this late in April.  Our second stop was at a rest stop in Germany.  We took a half hour for lunch.  The kids all seemed to be a little refreshed, but the energy I've seen all week was not there.  Of course, it could be a product of our long day in Prague.  It also, however, could have had something to do with Dachau being so close.

I am the first one to admit how fortunate I have been to be involved in these student trips.  I was speaking with Mr. Jones today about how many consecutive Aprils I've been away.  My passport is nearly full with stamps (not all from student trips), but nothing really compares to visiting places that make you feel the history.  The weight of the past rests heavy upon your shoulders when you begin to approach a place like Dachau.

The gated entrance to Dachau is easy to recognize.  "Abeit Macht Frei" translates to "work will set you free."  It is the world's worst form of irony.  For many, just seeing these words brings forth an emotional response.  At Saugus High School, we do a fairly nice job of preparing students to learn about the Holocaust.  The topic is covered in History and English classes.  We even have an entire course focused on the Holocaust and Genocides.  A few of the students are in, or have taken, that course, but for some, this is really their first exposure to the size and magnitude of this event.  As we stopped in front of these words there was a noticeable change in mood from our kids.  Some of us shot pictures, but many just silently crossed through into the Nazi's first concentration camp.  We held a brief meeting and then began to examine the exhibit.

The museum at Dachau is very well designed.  You enter into the main building, it is in the picture above.  There is a large timeline on the wall detailing many of the important events in the camp's history.  To the left, there is a small office.  I went in and spoke with a women who might have been the curator of the museum.  As we spoke, she told me of which tools are best used to teach the subject of the Holocaust.  She recommended a few titles for me (some of which I had previously purchased) and informed me that her organization provides for the printing and distribution of materials to people around the world.  She showed me some envelopes she was mailing to the United States.  Her passion for the museum was undeniable.  Opposite of her small store/office, you walk along the timeline of events and into the main exhibit.  Along the way, you have the opportunity to see how the Nazi party and Anti-Semetism rose to prominence in Germany.

The museum focus shifts to the growth of the suppression of dissidents, political opponents, and the Jewish leaders of Munich.  The number of prisoners was originally 6,000, but quickly grew to over 6 times that number.  The prisoners, who originally had single beds and lockers, soon found themselves in barrack-style living.  The camp guards and commandants were especially brutal.  Strict penalties existed for uncleanliness, hiding food, or singing without permission.  At one point, a commandant changed the rule for whipping and beating prisoners.  If the order was for 40 lashes, two guards could administer lashes at the same time, but it would only count as one...thereby doubling the number of strikes upon the body of the prisoner.

There is a video shown at the museum too.  I didn't watch it this visit, but most of the kids did.  I bought it a few years ago and show it in my classroom.  I walked out into a small courtyard separating the main building from the "bunker."  This building was used to house the more important prisoners or the ones who caused problems.  I've walked its halls before, but this time, I came across two of our kids.  I sat back and watched them.  I tried to allow them to experience it for themselves.  It is amazing to see a young person mature in front of your eyes.  The slowly read an informational sign and then audibly gasped.  I checked later, it was a quote from a man who recounted how the guards would execute someone on a regular basis.  It was like keeping time to them.

[Author's note: You may notice a few less pictures on this post.  I have a couple, and will post them later, but a visit to Dachau can be an incredibly personal and moving experience.  I chose not to take posed photos with the kids, but instead, let them explore and learn on their own.]

I left the bunker and walked along the stone pathway towards the stable-like barracks where prisoners lived.  There are only two building remaining, but their were upwards of 30 buildings when the camp was active.  The living accommodations were terrible, as you can imagine, and the dehumanization of the prisoners of Dachau was readily apparent.  I can't even imagine how living inside those quarters must have felt.  As I walked along the footprint of the other 28 barracks, the snow started to fall again.  I struck me as fitting.  The day was cold and dreary.  I took a small video.  I am not sure if you can hear the wind whip or see the snow falling, but I think you can see the dread in the place we visited.

Along the wooded path, I walked.  Towards the memorials built in honor of those who perished and those who survived.  I walked towards the crematorium.  I saw another group of our kids there.  They were talking quietly, I approached and asked if they had any questions.  There were none that needed to be asked, they understood.  We all walked into the crematorium together and through the shower-room too.  We read how this model was used in other places, death camps, and how the prisoners were deceived. Some of those kids walked off into the woods along a path that brings them to a mass grave of prisoners killed by firing squads when the American liberators approached.

I walked back to the gate.  Our time at Dachau was approaching its conclusion.  As students arrived, I told them to walk to the information center near the bus.  I didn't want them waiting in the cold if it wasn't necessary.  One of the girls asked if she could go to the barracks, she hadn't seen them yet.  I said yes and she slowly walked across the grounds.  More kids arrived and I directed them to the warmth of the center.  As the last of the students approached, the girl who made her way to the barracks alone, I could tell she was upset.  The tears flowing from her eyes were a strong reminder of how places like this can impact people.  I took her into my arms and tried to hug the pain away. I told her that we visit places like this to learn and to better prepare ourselves to prevent similar things from happening.  I am not the most emotional guy and I am not usually good in these situations, but I knew she needed some time.  Mrs. Morando soon approached the gate and the two walked off together, hand in hand, to cope with the severity of the camp.

After a few minutes, I turned to walked to the information center too.  Our group had all left the camp. The visit was over, but the experience will live on...even if they visit more than once, Dachau will still impact them.  It will resonate later in life, sometimes unexpectedly.  The motto, "One Must Travel To Learn" means more to me on days like today than others.  I hope it makes more sense to you as well.

The main gate into the camp.

A memorial to the victims.

A statue outside of the main building of the camp. You can see the barracks in the background.  When the camp was active, prisoners would gather in the open space to be accounted for.

You can see the footprint of the remaining barracks in this photo.  The trees were not there when the camp was active.

This was inside the shower room at Dachau.  At other camps, this is where the Zyklon-B would be used to exterminate those inside.

One of the burners in the crematorium.

The bathrooms for prisoners at Dachau. 

Reproductions of the beds used by prisoners.

A barrack

The main building.  You enter in the larger part to the right.

A guard tower.

Prisoner chamber in the bunker

A view down the bunker.

There is a little part of the bunker protruding into this courtyard.  Several executions occurred there.

The firing squad wall.  I am not sure, but it looks like there may be bullet holes in the wall.

A model of the full camp.  The portion preserved in just the part in front of this photo.

What used to be the bath house now holds the museum.

We returned to Norbert and the safety of our bus.  Our trip into Munich was about an hour long.  We had a great dinner at another wonderful spot.  Tonight, it was pork on pasta.  The kids really seemed to enjoy it...even if they didn't quite like the coleslaw (more for me!!!).  We then headed towards the Ibis hotel.  We checked into our rooms, had a debriefing meeting, and some of us decided to head into town for a quick visit.  We bought Metro tickets and began our trek into the city.  Most of the stores were closed, but the kids found a McDonalds for some ice cream and late night snacks.  The day was coming to an end and it was fun to just be kids again.

One the train, we met some folks from Beverly.  It was interesting to chat with folks from where we live across the world.  The conversation was quick and we were soon at our stop.  Into our rooms we went for a much needed slumber.

Not a typical post tonight.

I hope you understand.  Tomorrow, we take off for a very different excursion.  It should be magical.  I appreciate you taking the time to read and learn. I hope you will engage whomever you know on this tour about our experiences today.

Mr. Lavoie, sitting in the lounge of the Ibis Hotel...a hotel he stayed in three years ago. Deja Vu is setting in.